Monday, March 12, 2012

Graaff-Reinet - On the other side of the mountain

Is that Superstition Mountain in the distance?
Last Friday, like the bear, Jim and I went over the mountain.  We have been spending all of our time so far along the beautiful eastern coast of South Africa.  We independently arrived at the idea that we should explore inland.

Nestled in horseshoe bend of Sundays River
So, we headed for the little Karoo -"place of thirst" - an area of desert and brush that makes Wyoming look greatly over-populated.  The only manmade structure that interrupts the horizon is an occasional old-school windmill next to a livestock tank.

You drive for miles and miles and miles and miles without seeing a house, another car, or even another person.  Then, just as you are about to go berserk,  you go over a mountain pass, and nestled between two mountains in the horseshoe bend of the Sundays River, is the town of Graaff-Reinet.

Graaff-Reinet is an Afrikaans town.  About 200 years old, it is the fourth oldest town in South Africa. Over 220 buildings have been declared heritage sites; many architecturally interesting homes and buildings still exist.  Its Dutch heritage is very evident - especially since a beautiful Dutch Reformed church sits squarely at its center.

I liked the town a lot.  The houses were nothing grandiose; all well maintained (and none had the tall electrified walls around them).  People were out walking, even after dark.  With its population of 30,000, it had a "small-town"feel.  It was full of B & B's, quaint pubs and good food.  I predict that Jim will still be raving about his lamb shank dinner when you see him next.  My bobotie was also very good (South African dish of ground meat, raisins, samp, and egg).

The town had turned its old library into an interesting museum.  My favorite sections included the slavery exhibit, and the...
The elongated legs give the impression of movement

...San cave art paintings found on land nearby











...And the dinosaur bones found in the immediate area
Did you know spike tails had two brains?
(One in the head and one in the tail.)
Next door, the city's art gallery contained all South African artists.  Each had been asked to exhibit an artwork piece of their choice.   It contained an eclectic collection of media.  The paintings ranged from beautiful landscapes of the Karoo (one was painted all in burnt yellows) to very modern pieces.

Neat town - definitely worth a visit!
Girl with yellow scarf


2 comments:

  1. You were right, I would like to visit this small town it would be great for the contrast to the coast where we will be spending much of our time.
    See you soon!

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  2. Peter took 12 students to the Valley of Desolation for sundowners, a braai at Urquart Park and a Guided Tour of Graaff Reinet. Next day we went to Owl House and Ganora to see rock art and etchings and fossils. On Sunday we went to Post Chalmers followed by brilliant sighting of Sable antelope and the rarest mammal of all - the Cape Mountain Zebra.

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