Addo National Elephant Park

Yesterday we all went to Addo, the third largest national park in South Africa.  Very near Port Elizabeth, it took us less than one hour to get there.  Addo has become very popular for European tourists, as it is malaria-free (while Kruger National Park is not).

Two elephant skulls and two numb-skulls

Addo is known for its elephants, and is a great story of animal renewal.   Because of ivory poaching and loss of habitat, the number of free-roaming African elephants in the region had by 1985 dwindled to eleven!   After setting aside a protected elephant section of the park, now there are nearly 500, making Addo one of the densest elephant populations in the world.  

Still, because it is a park and not a game preserve, they caution you that you may not see any when you visit.  But, we lucked out!  It was a hot day in Addo – in the high 90’s, and I think every elephant around decided to come to the water holes to cool off.  Jim estimates that we saw over 200 throughout the day.

My foot in the footprint of an elephant.

Elephants are the largest mammals on land.  The males can weigh 7.5 tons; the females 2-3 tons.

"Baby Elephant Walk"

Elephant herds are female-dominated.  The herds are usually comprised of females, babies, and sexually immature male elephants.  When the male elephant reaches sexual maturity, his mother has the job of chasing him away from the group.  It is nature's way of preventing inbreeding.  Our guide says that it is very sad to watch, as the young male often doesn't want to leave.   Elephants are very social animals, and enjoy physical contact.  But, if the mother is unsuccessful in chasing him away, the other females do so, only using harsher methods.

Elephants are very social animals!

This last picture is not of a malformed elephant with five legs.  Because it was so hot, this elephant was cooling off by extending his penis.  We learned that the elephant penis itself weighs 150 pounds.  I was naughty, and told our male students they should post a picture with the caption "Second largest penis in the world" - and just not mention that the whale has the first largest!

Anatomically correct young male

Addo is also one of the only places in the world with flightless dung beetles.  Their job is to break down the elephant poop; it is a natural "composter."  It is illegal in the park to drive over a dung beetle, or even drive over elephant poop as it might contain dung beetles.  I guess with all the elephants in the park, the rangers feel the dung beetles have a lot of work to do…

Two Happy Birthdays!

Today (February 21st) is the birthday of two of our five grandchildren.  Madelyn Rae turns FOUR today, and Serenity Ann turns TWO.   We hope they know how often we think of them.  Today, Jim and I couldn't find cupcakes, so we bought "hot cross buns," put candles in them, and blew them out in Teddy and Maddie's honor.

For those of you who don't know, we left five wonderful grandchildren behind when we left for South Africa (with Nick and Destini's little one on the way).  The weekend right before we left in January, we held "cousin camp" at our house.  All five grandchildren stayed overnight.  We dressed up in costumes, rode the new horse that John Mallo made us for Christmas, watched the movie Dolphin Tale (with popcorn!), and giggled late into the night.  Papa Jim and I often look at these pictures to remind us of the fun:

Happy Birthday, Teddy!

Happy Birthday, Maddie!

Sweet Music and Loud Soccer

Jim and I spent Sunday, February 18, outside.  (Eat your hearts out, Minnesotans!)  At 10 a.m., we went to music in the park.   Spreading our blanket on the grass, we sat and listened to the East Cape orchestra.  They played an eclectic mix of music - from Queen to a Disney medley.  My favorite part was their featured vocalist.  Her name was Zolani, and she had a wonderful voice.  She sang some original music that set the crowd to hopping.   The song I smiled at the most had these lyrics, "Fat thighs, flabby arms, and a potbelly make for sweet loving."

  

After the music, we had brunch with friends - again, outside.  We finished just in time to get to my first soccer game here.  (Jim went last Wednesday night, too.)  As one of the principals we work with observed, "South Africans love their sports."  Almost every conversation you have with someone gets around to sports at some point.  On Sunday, we watched the Orlando Pirates, a South African team, take on a team from Angola.  The crowd really got into the game; unfortunately, the Pirates didn't.  They lost 3-1.  But, it was really fun to be part of a crowd that exuded so much energy - from their horns to their hats.

The Windy City

Forgive me, Paul and Connie, but I'll never again be able to call Chicago the windy city.   I just don't know if it can rival Port Elizabeth.  PE is known as The Windy City here - and when the winds whip up, they are something to behold.   They send fine beach sand up into your rooms, your eyes, your hair.

Last weekend, Jim and I saw the wind's effects in two separate ways.  We decided to take a drive, traveling west along the shore.   At one point where we stopped to walk, the wind and wave action had churned the water up into a real froth.  Foam was flying everywhere; it was the closest to snow that we seen for some time.  As we walked along the beach, we'd become covered in suds.  My grandchildren would have liked all bubbles (if they could have stayed on their two feet).

Then, on Sunday, Jim and I went golfing at the Humewood golf course with two friends.  Against that wind, I pooped out after 11 holes, but Jim walked all 18.   One hole, Jim chipped onto the green and the ball ended up about 25 feet from the hole.  Jim was looking at the lie, but before he walked up and addressed the ball, it started moving again.  The wind pushed it nearly 15 feet closer to the pin!   Jim just smiled and sunk the putt.

Red Location Valentine's Day

Valentines' eve, we got "dressed up" and went back to the Mamas' backpackers location for a party.

We were welcomed with big smiles, and some hugs.  We watched native Xhosa dancers.  I can't describe the drumming, the feet moving, the singing, the joy.  Maybe these pictures can show you...

Meanwhile, the Mamas cooked up a meal.  It was fun watching the reactions of the students as they tasted: pumpkin (familiar), samp and beans (less so), millet and cabbage, and stomach lining of the ox.  Only the bravest of the brave tried the last item.  Even I left mine on my plate after one bite!

Tucker Gets in the Act

It was their first-ever event held for international guests, and several local dignitaries were there.  One man said to the students, "I hope that you will come back in 10 years or 20 years, and see a much-used neighborhood center filled with people from around the world.  And, you'll be able to say, "I was here at their first event."  I hope that too!

Missionvale Care Center & School

Tomorrow, February 13th, we all start volunteering.  (See my postings on Pendla Primary School and House of Resurrection Haven for the first two locations to which the CSB/SJU students will disperse.)

The third service option is located in Missionvale, one of the poorest townships around PE.  As described to us, Missionvale residents are still waiting for the newer (promised) government supplied housing. While they wait, they continue to live in corrugated iron or particleboard cottages and shacks.  For water, sixteen communal taps serve approximately 50,000 people.  Most children must first haul water before their school day starts.  One piece of good news is that the tap-provided water is clean, safe drinking water.

Our students will be volunteering at Missionvale Care Center.  The center is actually a complex, with several service areas through which our students will rotate:  nutrition feeding, home health visiting, a used clothing distribution, and an R-4 primary school.  This center looks really efficient.  It is run by an Irish nun named Sister Ethel who came to Missionvale Township in1988.  She started what today is Missionvale under a tree, by offering 'school' for the street children nearby.  From that beginning, this care center has grown.  Wondrous, really.

Nutrition packet for one.

That's not to say that they are lavish.  The center is is totally dependent on donations.  Few services are given out "for free."  For example for the nutrition program, each person served is to bring a glass, tin, or cardboard item to recycle in exchange.  After waiting in the sun (on benches) for possibly hours, they are given their daily portion - a half-loaf of bread, and a soup base that is reputably very nutritious.  (Sister Ethel thinks that it is better to give food that can be made and eaten at home as a family, than simply provide cooked food.)  The sight of a person's amount seems paltry to us, but they give thanks for what they receive.

Our students look like naturals...

Britt and New Friend

What is your name?

"We're Out of Warthog"

Well, I tried.  I have been fascinated by the prospect of eating warthog.  Friday night I ordered it, only to be told that "the kitchen was out of warthog!"  It's probably just as well.  With the re-release of The Lion King, I would have had some grandkids upset that I ate Pumbaa.  I ordered springbok instead - excellent.  Tonight, Jim cooked us some ostrich.  It was really good - and no, it didn't taste like chicken.  It actually was closer to beef.

I love trying foods that are unique to an area.  One restaurant that all of us here have become addicted to is Nando's.  It is a worldwide chain (I know it's in D.C., Jean!) that started here in Port Elizabeth.  The original place was opened by a Portuguese family, and was called Fernando's.  It is a fast food restaurant, but everything is cooked fresh.  Great, spicy sauces.

I also enjoy noticing a few differences in food packaging.  My favorite so far in South Africa is found on the corner or flap you use to open a container.  Here, it is clearly labeled:  "Lift thingy"